Profile
Rebekka Carey-Smith
and Sigrid McCarthy from
Ethical Clothing Australia
Rebekka and Sigrid wear Australian made clothing from ECA accredited brands Cue, Veronika Maine and Bon label.
Let’s start simple, what is Ethical Clothing Australia and what role does the organisation play in the Australian fashion industry?
Ethical Clothing Australia (ECA) is a unique organisation working with local textile, clothing and footwear (TCF) companies manufacturing in Australia. We are a joint industry-union initiative that embraces transparency and works towards a more ethical Australian TCF industry.
Essentially, our accreditation program maps a company’s Australian supply chain throughout the entire cut, make, trim and value adding process to ensure it is compliant with Australian legislation, and that the rights of garment workers are protected. This might sound slightly intimidating, but the process is a collaborative one that sees ECA working alongside brands to assist them in this journey. We offer various tools and resources as a way of educating Australian businesses and the general public on the benefits of an ethical and transparent business model.
Given the outsourcing nature of the global garment industry, it can be difficult for companies to know exactly who is making their clothing and under what conditions. The Australian TCF industry, while it is much smaller than most, experiences these same inherent issues. By mapping local supply chains via annual third-party compliance audits—conducted by the Textile, Clothing and Footwear Union of Australia—we can ensure that all workers, including homeworkers, are accounted for and receiving legal entitlements and working in safe conditions.
Outside of our core accreditation program, we seek to strengthen local industry by encouraging brands to explore onshore manufacturing opportunities. The local fashion industry has historically been quite opaque, which has influenced people to believe that little to no manufacturing takes place locally. We try to connect the industry by linking businesses with Australian makers and providing resources to help them better understand their legal obligations when operating onshore.
People often assume that ‘Made in Australia’ equates to ‘Made Ethically’. Unfortunately, ECA knows from experience that this isn’t always the case; in fact, this was the very reason we were established. While conditions have improved over time, issues relating to traceability still exist so we continue to view our role in the Australian fashion industry as being of great importance. We hope that our work, alongside the efforts of other key local organisations, leads to a TCF industry that values ethical business practices and the lives of those making our clothing. There is scope for Australia to be recognised internationally as an industry that produces high quality, ethically made garments and we look forward to local industry reaching this potential.
What do you love about working at Ethical Clothing Australia?
Sigrid: Working at ECA has allowed me to find my place in the TCF industry; a place where I can pursue my interest in fashion without sacrificing my strong desire to advocate for human rights. It’s rare to find a job that aligns so perfectly with personal values; I feel privileged to work for an organisation that stands for something so incredibly important.
As the Media and Communications Coordinator, I share the positive stories of companies valuing transparency and taking responsibility for those in their supply chain. Accreditation in itself is obviously not that ‘sexy’, but during my time at ECA I have worked on refining the organisation’s branding and appealing to wider industry and consumer groups through both language and imagery.
The fashion industry is ultimately design led, and this will always be the case. Its focus on aesthetic is what makes the industry so beautiful; however, I strongly believe that the story behind a garment is what enhances the overall appeal. In order for ECA to engage with fashion brands and be embraced by wider industry and consumers, our accreditation program needs to be viewed as a complementary enhancement to businesses and their story. My job is to elevate our brands so that they are seen as the more desirable option—not only are they producing a high quality, aesthetically pleasing product, but they are doing so with integrity. They are supporting local industry, respecting the welfare of local workers, and valuing third-party compliance as an integral part of business. This to me is a beautiful story, and something worth sharing. I’m fortunate that communicating this message is a core part of my job, and one of many reasons why I love working for the organisation.
Since high school, I have been an avid writer and for many years wanted to dabble in fashion journalism. In saying this though, I find much of what is being explored in fashion writing quite dull. With all-access video footage and photography available, we don’t really need to be told that a dress is XYZ as we can see it with our own eyes. I much prefer to write and read about how this industry operates, and in what ways it can improve. ECA allows me to explore this interest and contribute to a meatier dialogue. I love being able to fine tune the organisation’s message, and pursue new ways of engaging our audience.
Something I’m mindful of is the need to appeal to more than just a niche market - the types of people already interested in ethics and where their clothing is made. It is imperative that we transcend this and work towards creating an industry standard that resonates with the majority. This is an ongoing challenge, though I find it extremely rewarding when unexpected people start showing interest in ECA; particularly when higher profile fashion labels reach out to learn more about the accreditation and how we can assist them.
People who know me will appreciate how invested I am in this organisation and what it stands for. I worry sometimes that I’m becoming ‘that guy’ who can only bring work related banter to a social setting. Often I forget that terms such as ‘systemic negligence’ and ‘supply chain management’ don’t captivate everyone. There’s a fine line between informing and preaching, and sometimes I need to rein in my feelings and accept that not everyone is ready to delve into this space yet. Luckily I have colleagues who are equally as passionate about ethics in fashion as I am, and don't mind the ongoing conversation.
I couldn’t answer this question without mentioning my relationship with Bekka. I am extremely fortunate to have a colleague who also doubles as a close friend, and is able to support me as I try to navigate my way in this space. It’s not always easy pushing for change in an industry that is somewhat set in its ways, and there are some days when I feel like walking away from it all. It is Bekka who reminds me of why I’m investing so much of myself in this ‘good fight’ and why it’s important for me to maintain perspective. When I feel particularly disheartened that we haven’t managed to transform the industry overnight, she helps me see the bigger picture. Thanks B x
Ethical Clothing Australia
“There is scope for Australia to be recognised internationally as an industry that produces high quality, ethically made garments and we look forward to local industry reaching this potential.”
What do you love about working at Ethical Clothing Australia?
Bekka: I feel privileged to work within this industry, which I love dearly, for an organisation that I truly believe in. ECA exposes me daily to the complexities, challenges and opportunities of this fabulous industry. I feel similarly fortunate to see the outcomes of the big things that our tiny team does in local industry, and I know that as the team grows, so will the things we do.
I work in the day-to-day of the accreditation process, as well as the development of the program and our presence in industry. I love that although we may be working on the ‘ugly’ side of the industry, one that sees us dealing with some pretty disheartening stories and situations on a somewhat regular basis, we can still see the beauty in it. The beauty being that our accreditation—as dull as that may sound—is core to what we do and is actually making a tangible difference to the workers and businesses in this small yet incredible industry.
I love working with so many inspiring companies who see producing onshore and supporting local industry as a strength and benefit to their business. It’s an imminent reality that the local manufacturing industry is shrinking and skills are disappearing. Working with small makers here in Australia, and businesses that are committed to supporting these skills, is so encouraging. There is real value in understanding the nuts and bolts of the manufacturing side of this industry, and it’s scary to think that the next generation of designers may have little technical skill or understanding of garment construction. The offshore outsourcing model and nature of the industry is being taught as an economical advantage, but through this so many skills and techniques are being lost. I hope that we see stability in the local industry and an appreciation for the talent and skill that is so special and precious to Australia.
Lis from ECA accredited label, Nico Underwear, told me the other day that she sewed her entire first collection herself. Although it wasn’t sustainable for her to continue to do so—there just isn’t enough time in the day— if she hadn’t done that, she wouldn’t speak the same language as her makers and understand the construction and form of her garments. The way she designs her garments now reflects this practical knowledge and it gives the pieces she creates a special element of mindfulness. There’s something really special about knowing a designer has a connection to the entire process of a product.
There’s this thing we call ‘the vortex’ that Siggi and I often find ourselves in—reading article after article on issues, progress and general information relating to the ethical fashion space. It’s an endless source of inspiration, but it’s also overwhelming to think about the major changes that need to be made in order for the industry to become truly sustainable. Some stories definitely remind me how special the local TCF industry is here in Australia, and how important it is to share the positive stories behind clothing. Looking back at what the industry looked like five years ago, gone are the days of it being the norm (and somewhat acceptable) to turn a blind eye to your business impact and play the naïve card. People are demanding more from businesses now.
It’s been so amazing to see firsthand a massive shift in the way that the ethical fashion space is being embraced, and I am proud to be a part of it. There is a long way to go, and ECA is definitely not the ultimate answer to the fashion industry's problems, but it plays an important role and there are lessons that can be learned from our accreditation program; lessons that I hope we will see implemented on a larger scale. I look forward to seeing how far the industry will change in the next five years; I know it’s going to be huge.
Which Australian companies are accredited and why?
There is often this misconception that local TCF production no longer exists. While many companies have indeed opted to take their manufacturing offshore, many have chosen to support Australian industry and explore local manufacturing opportunities. There are approximately 90 brands accredited with ECA at the moment, and some of them are the most celebrated Australian names: i.e. Cue, R.M.Williams, Akubra, Nobody Denim, Manning Cartell, Veronika Maine, Jets Swimwear, Carla Zampatti, Bianca Spender and Scanlan Theodore.
We also accredit emerging labels that have embraced transparency and see great value in accreditation; they choose to use the accreditation as an integral part of their business story and a selling point to customers. Some of these include Vege Threads, Nico Underwear, Dharma Bums and Bon.
The businesses we work with span across fashion, footwear, underwear, uniforms, corporate wear, sportswear, children's clothing, manufacturers and more. Some companies view accreditation as being valuable for internal corporate social responsibility and risk management, whereas others actively promote their accreditation to appeal to the growing ethical consumer market. The reasons for pursuing accreditation are varied, but for us the motive isn’t necessarily important—it’s the commitment they’ve made to ensuring everyone involved in the making of their products here in Australia is accounted for, and the acknowledgement that third-party compliance is the best way to ensure this.
We love learning from our companies, and hearing them talk about their relationship with local industry. Cue Clothing Company, as an example, is the largest womenswear manufacturer in Australia. They are part of the ECA Committee and have embraced the ECA program as a core part of their business. We recently heard Cue’s Chief Operating Officer, Damien Peirce-Grant, speak about their unique business model and why they continue to manufacture locally and renew their accreditation with ECA:
“Maintaining strong relationships with our makers and suppliers means we can oversee the local manufacturing process and ensure a high quality end product. There are many advantages to remaining onshore, including shorter lead times, smaller runs, the ability to trial styles in-store before producing larger volumes, and ultimately having a competitive edge. It’s not about just ticking boxes for us, we truly believe that the relationship we have with ECA as an independent body, and with the TCFUA as the representative for workers in our industry, is a collaborative one.”
By working alongside Australian TCF companies towards a more transparent and ethical industry, it is easy for us to see the business benefits of accreditation; especially in the changing climate where transparency is becoming increasingly sought after. For the development of our program, it is so important that our brands continue to outline the business benefits—of both accreditation and local manufacturing—as a way of appealing to wider industry. We hope that in time, third-party compliance will become an industry standard and ECA accreditation will be recognised as best practice. Watch this space.
Ethical Clothing Australia
"In order for ECA to engage with fashion brands and be embraced by wider industry and consumers, our accreditation program needs to be viewed as a complementary enhancement to businesses and their story. Our job is to elevate our brands so that they are seen as the more desirable option—not only are they producing a high quality, aesthetically pleasing product, but they are doing so with integrity."
When looking to the future of the TCF industry, what do you both hope to see?
It can be easy to oversimplify what complex issues we are facing globally—not only in the TCF sector but the economy in general. The ideology that businesses being profitable can be at the expense of vulnerable or less fortunate people has somehow become ingrained in many businesses’ ethos. Challenging this, in the hope of seeing a fairer distribution of wealth and a respect for those at the bottom of the supply chain, is no easy feat. There is a real need for systemic change, and a mindset shift throughout government, business and consumers.
Something we strongly believe is that the pursuit of immediate perfection is not realistic, and can actually be a hindrance to real progress. We hope to see businesses not only celebrate their existing efforts, but also openly acknowledge that there is room for improvement. We would like businesses to be more honest about the issues they’re facing, and look to others for advice. In order for the local and international TCF industry to thrive and develop into a more conscious one, it needs to embrace collaboration and share information regarding innovations, hurdles, insights, and progress. Ultimately, we would like to see more people respecting the fact that everyone is on a journey. No business is perfect but by supporting collaboration and innovation, as well as an openness to change, the industry will move in the right direction.
In our optimistic minds, the future of the Australian TCF industry is one that embraces transparency and ethical business practices. We don’t believe that companies can continue to remove themselves from those at the bottom of the supply chain, as traceability will only continue to gain more attention going forward. We hope to see greater regulation, globally, and third-party compliance become the industry standard. Supply chain transparency—alongside a commitment to producing innovative, high quality goods—will see local industry celebrated on a global stage. People will eventually realise that Australian businesses are leading the way and setting a benchmark for others to follow.
Portrait by Claire Summers
ECA campaign image by Heather Lighton
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